Adidas London.....
I feel it is my duty to inform the goodfolk of Casualcorp about the frenzy of reissues regarding the city series, Adidas London. To date there has been a run of 4 new colourways, each mimicking in my opinion original deadstock Malmo, Bern, Brussel and Amsterdam. Why do you ask have Adidas decided to revisit their archives in such a way and reissue what we know as the truely inspirational C/W of poppy/black. A classic trainer in its own right that sat nice alongside the Dublin & Stockholm 08 reissues. This a late heads up for those that may just manage to grab a pair in the not so exclusive colours. I have to say they are not a patch on the Og and no reissue ever will be, so why has such an iconic trainer manifested itself into some marketing ploy, trainer store Size released an exclusive limited 1/500 London earlier this year and have continued with various others that I will not name, The fuse was lit, along came the Consortium with Crooked Tongues, a leather reverse colour unit, which proved highly successful, I and many others have found it hard to grasp the thinking behind these issues using colours of iconic original vintage trainers.
But there are more to come next year...
Have Adidas ran out of names for their new school shoes?, has marketing lost its edge or is it just fashion dictating how brands now operate, Dont get me wrong I love the city shape, its a classic, always will be, Long gone is the shape you see above, the London runner, One thing for sure, they have caused quite a stir on internet forums/communities, dressers alike who would not even remember the Og poppy colour and gorgeous gum sole have been given the opportunity to own something which I believe should never have been touched, It may feel more like a rant than a review, I could harp on about how Adidas have dismissed Malmo etc, but this aint true, do they really care about us, the collector who owns Brussel & Bern Og, shaving our investment or is it just a lazy promotion towards the Olympics, Make your own mind up, these are not limited and if you are not aware of the Og C/W then you should be impressed with them, unfortunately I already own all of the above so my view is somewhat biased,
One thing is for sure, you can expect to see more Og Adidas trainers reissued over the next few years, Its what the buisiness thrives on. I will end on a high note and a bit of advice for those that seek, If you are to buy any colour then go for the brown C/W or wait till next spring for the burnt orange to be released.
We have no control any more, where do we go to source those trainers that elude us?
Adidas have played a blinder and the trainer will do well, Its just a shame it had to happen to such a nice trainer, but the colours just wouldnt look right any other way.
MONITALY.......
Now if your like me, you will always have one eye surpassing everybody else's vision in looking for something unique and inspiring from todays saturated brands. It has become incredibly difficult to source new and undiscovered labels since the birth of our interweb and cyber knowledge which is shared out there.
Take no notice of what you read or feel inclined to follow, one thing i have slowly learned from fashion is its a chance to express your individuality, your attire can speak a thousand words, I know many a woman who can weigh a guy up just by looking at what watch he may wear, little do they know the expensive ones are all knock off from a previous ramraid the night before. Enough of the rabble, Gents I want to bring to your attention a brand which has had my mouth salivating for a little time now, Yes all the usual suspects are on this and I expect some stunning garments from MONITALY,
Any brand with a underlining slogan which reads " Every stitch has a soul " is sure to entice even the most esoteric of dressers. I first caught glimpse of their eye for detail in the SS season, a shirt caught my eye, there was something different, It told a story to me, and that is the essence of MONITALY. It is part of Meg Company which heralds a mighty fine shoe extroadinaire (not revealing) if you dont know then butt out ;). The name derives from a fine gents daughters name Monica and the word military and Italy obviously, I must have give the game away by now, Their fall mountain wear this season is stunning, Intense colours yet subtle subdued by their style with the Army Duck Mountain Parka, pic above, This is a brand which has functionality, style and durability down to a tee, no more expensive then most competitors, you know you will be in inspired to continue collecting their work. Its like art, when you find something which not only fits but feels so right and turns heads you seek more of the same, It would be very unwise not to, Monitaly is humble, they dont need to shout, The ethos is simple they let the pictures and marketing do the talking, This is such a beautiful product which has developed more recognised brands in the past, built on a solid foundation which can only be admired, go check out for yourself the lookbook and come back and tell me your not impressed, It wont happen, Admittingly MONITALY is not for everybody, they can and will continue to be bold and inspiring, which does scare some people, but will they change??? NO, they will adapt and evolve. You may feel that I have been a little evasive with this little gem, but I can assure you that I would rather you made up your own mind about what Mr YM has to offer.
Fanzine.................
Our aim, as always is to assemble a great team of writers who will committ their life to something againest the grain and special, Think of a rather informative and regular insight into the world as we see fit. There will be gifts, offers and valuable info of all your respective needs, The Offhand team are beavering away on developing a forum to run alongside the fanzine and create a community to meet our obsessive behaviour. The appetite is wet, fuse paper lit, its now time to get together and make a difference and stand out. We have many other great ideas which i will keep close to me old chest for the time being. All I can say is things are looking bright, I would also like to thank those who have helped and would offer anybody the opportunity to join our team if you feel you can bring something dynamic to the fold. Whether it be design, publishing or just your point of view, we would love to hear from you, Our first draft is nearing completion and may well be in circulation come November barring hiccups ofcourse.
Nigel Cabourn
If your looking at purchasing a piece of clothing from the entity that is Mr Nigel Cabourn then prepared to be amazed at his genius and innovative approach from fabric development to sheer functional style. Long gone are the days when NC himself churned out the utilty range stocked in high st store Debenhams, Nigel Cabourn has worked in fashion for over 40 years, a man not influenced by trends but a desire for vintage functional clothing with simplicity, yet unique. He draws his inspiration from the early military era which forms part of the elements from previous collections. There is a lovely poetic story about Nigel and his workmanship, his team of style purveyors work at the bottom off his garden in a conveted garden house overlooking a cricket pitch, which is the envy of everybody that visits. what a glorious way to work especially in the sunshine.
Now known as an outerwear specialist Nigel Cabourn uses the best in functional materials, he collected vintage clothing for 30 years and amassed over 400 pieces. @ Casualcorp that is some dedication. He is inspired by workwear and the british military which delivers a story and a sense of history. He does not respond to any particular trend, A fine example of this is last seasons wonderful garment, The Rangoon jacket which used a Beeswax fabric, It is one jacket I am in awe of, and once you sample something from his collection you may never turn back. then to the delight of the people who follow Nigel Cabourn released a winter version cameraman jacket using heritage fabrics, a mixture of Harris Tweed and Mackintosh, does it get much better than that. there is something very special about Nigel Cabourn's work and products, He designs under 3 quises : heritage, mainline and authentic. His vintage collection rivals any designer and are on show on his website, A select item is the denim naval smock (below), You feel this essense follow through into todays collection.
Favourite pieces for casualcorp are the Tenzing Blazer and the cameraman jacket, both AW & SS version, the Antartic parka surpasses anything released this season, although holding a hefty price tag, you know if dare take the plunge you are buying not only a quality garment but a piece of history.
Nigel Cabourn has collaborated with some of the worlds finest clothing establishments including Yukuten, it was said that when they met, there was such an energy between the 2 designers, it was as if they had known each other as from a past life, Another great strategic move was the collab with ARN Mercantile, they shared the same passion for british workwear and used only british fabrics and stuck to british production, Cabourn has a flagship store in the far east and is known worldwide, Stockists have always seen the potential of such a well educated designer and now atlast for us all, many high end stores are bringing in his work for us all to spend our hard earned. Another great thing about his gear is that it is highly limited, Keep your ear to the ground for something special in the pipeline.
003 - Henri Beene...
Tucked away in a small fishing town is perhaps one of the most comprehensive list of brands on offer by retailer Henri Beene, Grimsby Town's offering for the smarter gentleman has a lovely simply effective website which hosts the latest season's clothing from likes of Stone Island, Belstaff, 6876, Universal Works, Boss and on and on, Bit surprised why they never bothered stocking Guy Cotten lol, so perfectly located for its function, I have not had the pleasure of dropping by the shop in person but have never had any problems ordering and always have one eye on their end of season sales. All in all HB offers everything from Adidas to Hugo Boss green label, Their healthy appetite for supporting brands with heritage and innovation comes across well, with Cp Company release of their Metro and Barbour Beacon Heritage Brand,
A standout piece from the Barbour range has to be their Heritage Sporting Quilted jacket in olive, a look which delivers panache and individuality.
Many dressers, casuals alike are aware of what Henri delivers, Its nice to see a stockist with such a diverse array of clothing offers brands synonymous, like New Balance and Loake shoes, I would expect a hefty spending spree if making the effort to visit Grimsby and enter the Beene realms, and would not be disapointed with whats on offer, failing that a walk on the pier, staring across the Humber at my hometown with fish and chips in hand might just make up for what change you have left.
Go seek our link on the right,
Time Marches On Neverending.....
For those that know the song then splendid, Soulful US house at its best, from the debauchary days of Mirfield Hard Times way back, we can almost certainly say the years and the days are passing us by at an alarming rate, no sooner is one project off the ground, others faulter, while more flourish, This year has been in a way novel to say the least, I could quite easily squeeze out a biography consisting of this years antics which would rival any Dan dont know his surname novelist (great start eh).
Anyway back to what matters, Clobber, my palms are sweating already, fresh from a week away @ Centerparcs, rubbing shoulders with fit healthy and damn right obsessed I scour what is on offer this AW10 season, Everybody seems to following their own styles again, nobody stepping out of the comfort zone, Universal Works have some natty gillet style warmers which are definately essential for the dressers. I have already snapped up Albam's latest offering, the Trail Parka in Burnt Orange, made from Filson's materials, tis a stunner, I cant go without a few bits from SPW so awaiting payment from my sources I thought I would treat myself to the Waxed Ice Bomber, and Im sure another 3/4 pieces of their stuff will pass through my revolving wardrobe this winter.
I am always sourcing new labels and come across a nice little french number, Ere's, seem to have a perfect blend of subtle colours with se ne quais styling. More about them later, As our once individual little boltholes of casual attire expand, (you know who you are) and join the masses it is becoming more and more difficult to stand out with all the cool kats using casual clothing as a fashion, Wow how strange that an era spanning more than 20 years has now become a period in fashion, Come off it, This is now why we are seeing the likes of most independent retailers stock almost identical gear, we are available to the masses, what I and most was brought up around and lived, others are able to replicate.
Its not all negative, Offhand is putting some new ideas forward and my cellar is restocked with plenty of vintage Adidas, Ma strum looks promising again and i have one of their 100 only collab jackets which comes complete with a genuine piece from Massimo Osti Archive and my name printed in jacket.
Winter may be upon us folk, dont go rushing to put the old vintage racer back just yet, there's plenty of miles left until dusk, Just remember to choose wisely if you want to stand shoulders above the rest, A little tip, dont try ;)
Offhand......
BBBerghaus...
Berghaus was formed in 1966, a great year, 2 british climbers embarked on what they must never have envisaged. Peter Lockey and Gordon Davison opened a small mountain performance store using their knowledge. By 1977 the legendary fabric Gore-tex was born and is still used today by many top labels. Again they followed suit with yet another innovative design the gaiter, which is still today regarded as the most innovative outdoor product. Berghaus grew rapidly as a strong label amongest the mountaineering elite and released their flagship product, the Trango, which incidently has been reissued AW09. It has now been recognised by the Queens awards and has dominated the world. There is now a beatiful flagship store @ Metrocentre, go seek and remember its British.....................
Cellar Project.....
I hear you scream well where's our reviews or what label are we looking at. I can tell you I have looked at fook all, my money has been engulfed by the missus demands. I hope to get back on track next month and have sourced some rather tasty items, few personal choices I see floating about, Guy Cotten have released the Dremtech in two stunning colours, Cardinal Red and Sunshine Yellow. The jacket soon became a firm favourite amongest the elite and I must say these 2 new colours really set the jacket off, Clarks have upped the stakes and reissued the Minster Moor & Oberon, two classic shoes. And as Im sure you are all aware Size are celebrating their anniversary with a different Adidas reissue each month, past are Jeans, Londons, this week we see release of Manchesters, which in my opinion are looking mighty fine. then we move onto Adidas Birmingham, Dublin, Malmo and few others, Casual Connoissuer are due to issue some lovely pin badges and I notice they have a few CC scarves, unfortunately the highly limited and rather fine Weir bobble hats are now defunkt. Its must have been a good year for some top stockists, both Albam and Oi Polloi take up new premises, of which i will be visiting shortly.
and finally just to let whoever is listening, we @ Offhand are looking at sorting a nice discreet label which will be available from here and will be selling very rare and highly limited attire for those who seek it out. the rule is you find us you get the treat.
Its been a pleasure as always, now back to what we do best.............
Cp Company...
Today Cp has developed some of the best looking coats ever, their SS10 range of milles take on pastel colours and back returns the Cp Branding. A label respected by many who stand in awe of one lucky enough to pass you by. these are an investment, a history lesson and above all one of the greatest jackets and functions ever produced.
Review 002 - Oi Polloi
002 - Oi Polloi....
Whenever I have the opportunity to travel the trans pennine express I will always find myself perched inside a wonderful menswear attire shop, hidden just on the outskirts of Manchester's Northern Quarter. Lads and well Lads I say with great esteem I give you Oi Polloi.
Shadow Project......
The SS10 range has failed to deliver with nothing standing out. Last season's spring/summer stock was impressive with some very nice garments, the technical tyvec and Multipocket jacketsbeen the best, which followed the autumn/winter range, again the Ice jacket surpassed everybodies expectations, loved by many, hated by so few. So why has this seasons range failed to deliver???.
Personally I believe Stone Island is trying to break into a market influenced heavily on the eastern trends and looking for a new strategy. With the economic climate proving difficult for most brands to achieve any sort of decent profit, other avenues need to be explored.
Guy Cotten...
Now then, every so often a label is unearthed which defies anything other than the norm, something casuals and trendsetters have been doing for time, searching for new obscure and diverse directions in attire. One label which surfaced early 08 was Guy Cotten. For those who dont know or are not aware this is traditionally a very respected brand in the fishing industry and sailing world, I do neither, In the early 60's Mr Cotten came up with the idea of producing a robust waterproof fabric for the emerging sailing fraternity. Thus the Rosbras jacket was born. This was a revelation, practical and conventional. The company has come a long way and you can guarantee if you ever have the pleasure of doing 3 weeks away sea fishing then you will be wearing Guy Cotten. Now making garments for over 40 years for foul weather conditions and marine activities I see nothing but great things for Guy Cotten now its crossed over.
I tell you a nice little story about a shop I have plenty of dealings with, wont mention its name ;)
The salesman for Guy Cotten has arrived early at the shop to show some of the jackets on offer and as going through the stock with the owner he notices this isnt no sailing/marine shop, so turning to the owner looking bemused he asks, why do you want to buy this stuff, nobody will buy it from here, Glint in the owners eye, I wouldnt be so sure he replies. And the salesman said its crazy how the brand has crossed over into such shops. Needless to say The shop did rather well shifting the jackets.
Not surprisingly due to its rather cool logo, the arm outstretched guy and excellent value for money this brand has found its place amongest the elite, Shops in the know stock it and there are some decent jackets, albeit not known for churning out different styles, they stick to one formula and thats good honest decent quality clothing, The detail is superb. One material they use is Dremtech, a material far superior to gore-tex, and the elasticated cuffs and magic hood add something extra. You can expect to pick up decent jacket for £50 upwards and believe me they look the bolloxs. If you get the chance to pick up a Dremtech then do so, they are gorgeous, stunning green, expect to pay over £200 but well worth the money.
So if your looking to stand out above the rest and want to swerve the usual Fjall, Barbour etc, give them a look, you will be pleasantly surprised.
What goes around comes around................
So whats happened????
I now looking at shoes in a different light, Be it Clarks Desert Treks, Jacoform or Finn Comfort through to Mephisto. They are all demanding my attention and many of my friends, Is it my age??. No its simply a statement I am saying I can be casual, I can adapt. I have an eye for quality and comfort. Its our heritage. Take a look around at the new school of shoes, Fracap, Paraboot, Sperry, they are all reinterpretating classic designs whether it be designed on a traditional hiker to a simple colourful deck shoe. More and more people including me and some close pals are wanting quality, I want to turn around and say yes these on my feet are handmade and they are comfy and most of all they suit and say what I want about me. There are some stunning examples if worn correctly surpass any vintage deadstock trainer. Yuketen and Quoddy are leading by example with designs inspired by the vintage handmade camarardie of excellence which will have folk looking down with envy. Even the brands we grew up with, Clarks are muscling in with a gorgeous weaver moccassin and Redwing holding its own with their intepretation of the work boot.
Its that time again for shoes to come out and state they do have a place in our hearts. they can be cool, A typical english gents choice for the smarter occassion. But I still havent found my summer Gordini shoe.
Go on Buy some, Feel different, Be Smart ;)
Ma Strum...........
2010 - New Year New Beginnings....
I gotta admit i have neglected CasualCorp of late but now its a new beginning, new pastures another year ahead of hunting the elusive brand, sourcing those hard to find grail trainers and keeping you all informed about whats out and about amongest the british elite.
Its been a good start to the year for me personally, adding to my Garbstore collection, I managed to pick up the Mountain Providence Parka in black for a cracking £150. There are still a few to be found around the web. I was hoping for a mammoth shopping spree this month, keeping one eye open on Oi Polloi sales, but for me its been disapointing, It amazes me how they manage to drag up the Fjall Karbulle check shirt each year. Dont get me wrong this is and will continue to be the best shop in the Uk but my opinion on the sales is nothing special. however there are a few bits tempting me @ 50% off, YMC wax fishing jacket with a total of 25 pockets and FOLK bombers are well worth a punt. Both labels which we will look at in more detail when its time.
Plenty of exciting news to share and new brands discovered makes 2010 shape into a damn fine year, Plenty of labels defining their original roots and new inspiring ones setting the standard, And it looks a near perfect year for Adidas with some serious reissues planned. will keep you posted.