Barbour....

Barbour to us all is a name synominous with british heritage and a decent brand amongest the casual elite. Founded in 1894 and warranted by the Royal family the classic british outdoor company is now over 100 years old. Barbour is a 4th generation family owned company who have developed a unique understanding of clothing that is truly fit for the country lifestyle and casual attire alike. Their latest collaboration see them join forces with Tokihito Yoshida, launching a limited edition capsule collection for AW09. A vast improvement on last seasons collaboration with Boxfresh which saw the two, tweak the iconic wax jacket.

Tokihito seemed the obvious choice, being renowned for the detail that he adds to his garments, has taken Barbour's distinctive style and created a unique signature collection of 3 - 5 winter jackets. included is a wax Trench Coat, Bicycle, Horse Riding, Motor Riding and Driving jackets.

These designs are littered with lovely detail features. Also comprimising on the fit, steering away from the classic cut towards a more contemporary tailored neat and slim finish.

Be on the lookout for the To Ki To Driving jacket in brown, pick of the bunch for me and available from all the usual suspects (stockists) late August. Sources inform me that this collection is selling fast on pre-order sales alone, so dont expect them to be around long.

All in all this limited collection re-interpretes Barbour's authentic style, being visually appealing while broadening the brands modern heritage and inspiring simple elegant, not to mention eye catching designs.

Keep one eye open for the SS10 range, some stunning examples of a Dryfly jacket, in 3 fabrics/colours, carbon coated blue, duralinen tan and polytech olive. Barbour for me seems to be picking things up and moving in another direction.

Fingers crossed.

Stone Roses,

Something a bit different today, not so much concentrating on fashion, but as much iconic is the re-release of the Stone Roses catalogue on vinyl. Drool Drool.

I was very excited to hear this news and I am sure that you all will be aware of their influence and stance for the madchester era,

Releasing a run of 5 limited 7inch singles along with a 20th anniversary collectors edition which includes art prints, usb stick loaded with goodies and Dvd.

Originally released in 1989 and the album Stone Roses was cited as the greatest album ever made. Amazingly we are now talking 20 years ago. over these last two decades the albums impact has inspired musicians and winning accolades.

Fancy checking these out???

They can be found over at stoneroses.co.uk and audio samples are available at picadilly records.
NJOI...................

Garbstore.

Umfamiliar Vintage - A term Garbstore aspires to be, drawing its influences from familiar garments with one foot in the past and a look into the future while touching on all things along the way. Its aim is to be free from image and cultural reference, focusing on excellent quality and design product. Fast becoming a staple brand in any casual attire.

Garbstore removes itself from the fashion world, concentrating on what is good for us the consumer. Created by a certain One true Saxon founder based on a passion for deadstock vintage clothing. For me Garbstore has really come into its own with strong SS/AW 09 collections. Their vintage inspired range of work shirts and parka's sit perfectly along with their well established jeans, the sizing is true and give a fitted look.

Perhaps one of the most sought after pieces of this season is the Woodland Side Racer jacket, in royal blue, a perfect example of Garbstore eye for true individual style. Also available in black and tan. this jacket already sold out in blue at any of its stockists worldwide and incredibly difficult to source in either colours. There are still some amazing pieces available on their online store with prices slashed.

Right now I cannot wait to see what Garbstore have to offer us with their next collection.

Ermenegildo Zegna.

Now if your like me, you are always on the look out for something that little bit special, an item/brand of clothing that not too many people will wear or know, and if they do, they will appreciate it. Ermenegildo Zegna is a fine italian fashion house. Zegna was initially founded in 1910 producing fine wool suits and is todays largest global producers in fine fabrics, manufacturing for labels such as Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent. It is still managed by the fourth generation of the Zegna family.

One of the ranges which continues to catch my eye is the sport range. Constantly playing with designs and proportions to create a desired elegance. Their winter 09 range consists of some very nice gillets/warmers at present and a very nice range of jackets, using recyled products.

One of their most iconic pieces was the i-pod jacket from the 2006 spring summer electronic range (above), with its ipod compatible controls on the sleeve, allowing its user to store their mp3 player inside the jacket. The following season Zegna produced the Solar Jacket, an ingenious design with solar panels intergrated into the collar, allowing the suns energy to be converted into electricity, which then is stored in a concealed battery capable of charging your mobile phone or Ipod. These two products alone have stapled Zegna's exclusivity and value amongest the fashion elite.

All in all Zegna is a top end clothing empire and is rarely stocked in many stores, so if you do happen to come across anything then please admire whats on offer, purchase and feel happy in the knowledge that only you and a select few others know and understand what Ermenegildo Zegna is all about.

ACRONYM Clothing

Every once in a while a brand comes along managing to be instrumental, focusing on future style and apparel technology.

That my friends is ACRONYM, founded in the early nineties as an independent design agency focusing soley on new generation products and users. Their 2002 project the Analogue MD Clone jacket,(Time magazine - cool inventions 2002) and a collaboration with WL Gore & associates, (inventors of gore-tex) have demanded attention for their advanced styling and functionality.

They then went on to release the limited edition ACRONYM kit-1 thus launching the ACRONYM label, which has since become one of the most innovative and respected fashion labels. This stunning jacket was of only 120 made. This piece was packaged exquisitely complete with a bag, compact discs, manual and misc parts.Past clients have included Massimo Osti - (IT), Recon/Subware - (USA), KHS Tactical Equipment - (DE) and iDiom - (USA) operating from Munich, Germany.

There really are some stunning pieces in their latest collections managing to use ground breaking materials with unique treating processes, creating an almost mythical and influential brand.

ACRONYM is not only fresh and intelligent clothing exceeding everybodies expectations, but a visionary for ultimate performance.

Hi - Tech Underground.

Review 001 - Albam

Each month I will be reviewing an article of clothing/brand from respected or unknown designers. I will also be looking at independent online shops and exciting new labels and products available.

This month we shall take a look at Albam - ' best kept secret '

A Uk label that started 3 years ago in Nottingham with only a handful of items in their first collection. This small independent clothing label with its simple approach is now looked upon as an understated contemporary label alongside APC and Margaret Howell. Down to the hard work of two gentlemen and an ethos of homegrown manufacturing Albam has extended its portfolio to include all types from footwear to outerwear. Perhaps the most commen or well known piece from their latest collection is the fishermans cagoule which was available in some beautiful colours, namely apple green and orange being my favourite. Its simple design and large white ivory buttons contrasting againest the bold colour made this jacket stand out.

There is also a cotten or nylon windjammer available on their website which looks lovely. All in all Albam have extended their range with knitwear, sweats and shirts sticking to a simple design using classic colours. Picks for me are the zip waffle cardigan and baseball sweater which are all reasonably priced. A nice selection of accessories are also available including a very nice cycling cap, (pictured above). Their website is elegant and easy to navigate, creating an impact.

You can also keep updated on their progress via a blog which is great idea and a good source of knowing what is next in the pipeline from them and check out their press blog for inside information:

Albam blog

Please check them out : Albam website

If your ever in London they can be found : 23 Beak St, W1F 9RS

Official stockists other than its own flagship store are Oi Polloi, who can be found in the links page.

I see Albam as an excellent british label and a brand which will be around for a long time, given its philosophy and workrate, bringing fresh air with its creations.

Adidas Samba

Here we go again yet another colourway release for the Samba range. The latest colour comes in the way of a high shine leather ice blue/black stripes, As you may be aware the Samba has evolved over the years from an iconic black leather trainer into ridiculous suede colourways from the past few years. Personally none of the latter have grabbed my attention or have I bothered to purchase.

Adidas seem to be upping their game with these, transforming a once drab training shoe into a dress shoe aimed at the facionists amongest us. They are available from Henri Beene, not too sure if mainstream stockists like Size will get these in.

I gotta say though this combination of colours I quite like, only wish they would have kept them suede and banged a gum sole on. Unfortunately I feel Adidas is beginning to lose its way with Samba, along with the Superstar/Campus range, it is the most versatile and they have released far too many different options and colour variations, therefore condensing the market and losing their authentic appeal.

In my mind the Adidas Samba will always be black with 3 white stripes.

Schuhe

The good guys over at microzine are now stocking a new casual range : Stellerstar, paying tribute to the 80s casual scene. Available in 2 designs on sweatshirts, hoodies and T shirts.

Each design consists of a classic picture of original vintage Adidas trainers sitting well on various natural colours. These really do look nice and will be my next purchase. A very nice alternative to the usual casual branding on offer from 80s Casuals and Casual Connoissuer.

Be sure to check these out at Microzine, along with the fabulous Australian by Alpina sportswear brand and also dont forget the limited edition Banksy print T shirt.

Mephisto.

Very pleased to have found out that I have won a pair of Grisport Modena shoes off Ebay at a bargain price. This is a very nice sporting shoe similar to Mephisto rainbow/cruiser. You can see the similarities between the two, the only difference is the price with Grisport retailing around the £40 pound mark.

Intrigued to find out if the Grisport match Mephisto in terms of quality, durability and style. Now anybody who knows about a decent shoe and after something different that will last eternity will know Mephisto, namely rainbows are a sound purchase, and a decent price too, ranging from £80 to £120. These shoes are handmade in France in their original factory and are respected in Germany, Canada and Japan. not too recognised on these shores, but I have to say they are by far the most comfortable shoe i own. The rainbow is known and worn by most from the range, but there are some lovely alternatives.

Look out for the gore-tex range, usually bit pricey but well worth it. part of that range includes the Sierra, a robust mid shoe which states internal airbag and handsewn Norwegian processes for strength and durability. I would put the Mephisto range up there with british heritage Clarks (natura), Finn Comfort, Jacoform and Redwing, all quality shoes in their own right.

If your in the market for a shoe which stands the test of time, then look no further, as long as you dont mind being referred to as a geography teacher.

AW09 - Ice Jacket

Now if your like me, you will appreciate a good winter jacket and be prepared to spend serious money on something that will keep you snug in the winter months, which seem to get worse every year. Its that time when all stockists and designers unveil their winter collection. The choice can be difficult at times, with Barbour, Fjall Raven, Garbstore, Folk, Cp Company, Paul and Shark etc all demanding our attention.

Now one jacket which has got my attention is Stone Island Ice which is treated with a thermo sensitve liquid crystal coating that changes colour when exposed to low temperature. The jacket will gradually change colour becoming darker in temperatures of 10C - 15C. Once the jacket is back in normal temperature it returns to its original colour. This is an amazing concept by Stone Island reinterpretating their original 89 Ice jacket. The jacket also comes with a detachable inner, keeping close to the 89 model, which can be worn separate.

Enjoy the pics of the colour change in action, sourced from Cp/Si NYC forum. As you can see above the jacket begins ice blue and gradually changes to a dark navy

Anybody interested visit : Stone Island


This really is a lovely jacket, sure the colour will not be to everybodies taste and people will either love or hate it, I think its a stunner and oozes quality, but sadly will not be purchasing with a price tag of just over £1000. Sure there will be some movement on the price from authorised stockists. I will just have to stick with my goosedown Typhoon P+S parka for now.

Collaborations

You can never be too sure which designer label will collaborate with who nowadays, take last season, Barbour releasing with Boxfresh, a good move? Am not so sure, it certainly raised their profile amongest the mainstream, but is it always a good idea, The only thing to change was the inner lining pattern of the jacket. There are others, take Fred Perry teaming up with Raf Simons and New balance x Alife. One name you can rely on to collaborate are Adidas, although had some awful collaborations, there are some beauties, In the past they have joined forces with Stone Island and Oki-ni. Their latest venture see's them team up with japanese artiste Kazuki Kuraishi, part of the fragment collective whom has designed for Levis, Idiom and Visvim.


I like some of the pieces in what is called originals by originals collection, standout footwear for me are ZXZ Gore-tex. Kazuki has also updated the Campus range and concentrated on the clothing side, which to me looks like it is aimed more at the japanese market.

Another shoe which caught my eye from the O by O range was the Adidas Jive Bomber,(above) what a name for a shoe eh, now this is nowhere near what you would expect from Adidas, taking influence from the 40's and 50's american style, incorporating an oxford silhouette design on a sneaker sole. Selling these at Size reduced from £124 to £45.

Its the subtle colours which do it for me and the kicker style sole which make this shoe stand out. Very rarely do Adidas or any other trainer company design something appealing out of their comfort zone. Take the Frezeit range by Adidas or ACG with Nike, Nothing from either range sticks in my memory. So collaborations, the reason behind them, to raise one profile or reinvent among different market. I think they are a good idea and hope to see more in the future, the more diverse the better,

O yes and if your after a decent pair of shoes, that bit different, check a great collaboration Oi Polloi x Etnies.

Adidas Athens

Its nice to see Adidas Athen pop on Ebay every now and then. My opinion lovely colourway and a classic trainer, very hard to find in good condition. Its very hard to keep this release a secret on Ebay as every folk, casual who knows their stuff will have sourced them. Hence the current price, bidding is at £251 already with 4 days left. Dont see much left in the price going past £270, but I could be wrong, with current re-issues like Dublins and Londons fetching close to £150 and more. Personally I would not pay over the 200 mark for any pair vintage or not.
Be sure to check the link if your interested, Im out at £110. The seller has a pair of Adidas Trinidad up for sale which will also go for over £100, lovely trainer, similar to Londons.

Athens

There are plenty of nice Adidas floating around global Ebay sites at the minute, The problem is every man and is dog are on it, and its very hard to feel like you bagged a bargain. Give it a couple of months and winter approaching and its sure to die down. I just wish I was a size 5, as grabbed the missus two pairs of original Tobacco's for 17 pounds, yes £17 for both pair. Bonus, fair way to go until she catches up with my collection mind.

Now if your like me, you can spend hours on the net looking for rare trainers, hoping your going to come across a pair of Adidas Malmo for 30 euro. Translating japanese auction sites for vintage Adidas. I have and will continue to source these much sought after trainers. It's amazing how many pairs of vintage trainers in such good condition seem to pop up on various sites online, The main being Ebay. However there are different ways of sourcing your holy grail.

On my latest search I came across this guy,

the adidas hunter

Interesting, so they will source for you those hard to find adidas which elude all of us, then pass on to you at inflated prices no doubt. Surely this takes the fun out of spending hours looking online. I know one thing I wont be in a hurry to use.

As this blog develops I will be posting links to what I consider the best in footwear sites for you to investigate. In the meantime keep searching.